Perfumery requires a certain amount of optimism to keep working on a formula for months in the belief that something good will eventually come of it, lol. I’ve been working on the gardenia musk with just a small amount of musk, waiting until I’m happy with the base and the floral accords before adding any other musk to the one I already have in it. At this stage I have a gentle, pretty floral accord composed of realistic gardenia accompanied by jasmine, tuberose, orange blossom, and ylang. The current base is sandalwood, beeswax absolute, ambrette seed, ambergris, tonka, and musk. I’ve been trying to bring enough interest into the base to make it work for those who can’t smell the musks, but I’ll need some testers to see if I’ve accomplished that or not.
I just added a touch of a second musk that adds volume yet smoothness to the final drydown stage. The first musk is beautiful with the floral notes during the first few hours, and the second musk complements the soft woodsy base notes after the first few hours. I’m still testing and want to try adjusting the strength of the florals relative to the base to maximize the staying power of the florals but without passing the point at which the opening becomes too harsh. I like the basenotes now with the touch of sweetness from the tonka and beeswax balanced by the dry parts of the woods and ambrette, and with the musk adding smoothness and a bit of radiance. It’s a soft, quiet scent, but that’s what I was aiming for with this one. When I’m done twiddling I should try some in a spray sample. I’ll need to see if others like it, but it’s not quite ready for testers yet. I should put it down for a couple days and work on Jour Ensoleille, and then test Gardenia Musk again with a fresh nose (I began the Jour Ensoleille reformulation a few days ago and it’s off to a good start).