More sniff testing…

I’m still testing various mods and trying to get as many scents as I can back on the list before opening.  I think Fireside Intense can go back up on the list with the new moss and Jour Ensoleille can be finalized after I hear back from some more testers.  I will not be done with the new incense or with gardenia before I open, but gardenia is very close. I haven’t worn or worked on gardenia in a couple weeks so when I get back to it in a few days it will be a good fresh test.  The incense doesn’t seem done to me now that I’ve tested it more; I think it needs more work.

I gave a quick try to the new By Kilian Back to Black Aphrodisiac yesterday.  I was surprised by how gourmand it is; it reminded me much more of Serge Lutens Rahat Loukoum or Keiko Mecheri Loukhoum than any tabac scent I’ve sniffed.  It has a very strong honey note with some almond, cherry, and powder the way those Loukhoums scents do.  It also has some soft tabac, but for me it is more about the honey.  It’s not quite as powdery as the KM but the honey is quite strong and there’s plenty of almond and powder too.  It’s yummy but I think it may appeal more to fans of gourmands than to fans of dry, woodsy tobacco scents (though some people have broad enough likes to encompass both categories).

I also took a quick whiff of Mark Buxton’s new Hot Leather and it seemed very promising.  I’ll give it a full wear when I have time.  Not enough skin, lol!

About Laurie E

artisan perfumer and owner of Sonoma Scent Studio
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7 Responses to More sniff testing…

  1. AnnYM says:

    Hi Laurie,
    Sounds like you’re on track, and with Fireside Intense and Jour Ensoleille returning, I think there’ll be plenty of flavors on the menu to choose from. Be sure to write my name on one of those little bottles of JE when you whip up that first batch – it’s going to be gorgeous! BTW – do you see any relation between JE and Champagne? I think they can be highly complimentary: 2 Jours (p the p) to 1 Champagne (then call me in the morning)…. LoL!
    Speaking of By Kilian, have you tried his Liasons Dangereuses?
    a:)

    • Laurie says:

      Hi Ann,

      I’ll be very happy to get Jour back up on the site. The new moss seems fine in it, and the new floral ingredients make it smoother and prettier. Glad you’re looking forward to it! I hadn’t thought about JE in relation to Champagne before; both are nice in fall.

      The Back to Black was the first Kilian I’ve ever tried! I was dragging my feet on sampling because of the price point, but I broke down and decided to sniff two. I have a sample of Liasons Dangereuses waiting to try next! (Those were the two that interested me most.) Maybe tomorrow I’ll get a chance. Have you tried it?

      • AnnYM says:

        I haven’t tried the Liasons, that’s why I was wondering if you had. Am thinking of trying it. The list of notes sound over-the-top decadent!

  2. Ann C says:

    Hi Laurie,

    I’m getting excited about your “grand reopening.” Jour Ensoleille sounds lovely. I remember when I first stumbled upon your site, JE was the fragrance that most intrigued me.

    I think you have described this as a unisex scent. I like many unisex fragrances, but I like them to lean a bit more to the feminine side. How does JE fit in this continuum?

    Will Amber Noir be back on the menu? That’s another one I’m interested in sampling.

    Thanks!
    Ann C

    • Laurie says:

      Hi Ann C,

      Yes, Ambre Noir will be on the list. I had already put in the new moss and labdanum before this break began. I think the only ones that won’t be ready will be Encens Tranquille and the new scents (gardenia and the new incense).

      Jour E does have quite a lot of florals so it is less masculine in that sense, and it does not have any of the stereotypical dihydromyrcenol or other “men’s cologne” notes that can be a turn-off. What makes it unisex is that it is fairly dry with a light woodsy chypre base of moss, labdanum, patchouli, sandalwood, cedar, beeswax, and green leafy notes. It dries down with a mossy, hay-like woodsy character (not much patchouli). A lot of men have purchased Jour E and told me that it doesn’t seem too floral at all for them because of the woodsy base. Also, orange blossom and neroli are used a lot in men’s scents and that is the predominant floral note in Jour, though the jasmine is quite noticeable to me too and the tuberose is there but in the background. Best to sample first because although it’s not overly masculine it is dry and mildly chypre with that green, mossy, hay-touched woodsy drydown.

  3. Tara C says:

    Just sniffed my samples of Encens Tranquille, Ambre Noir and Tabac Aurea again this morning, waiting (im)patiently for the store to be up again. 🙂 I just sniffed the Back to Black and also got the Rahat Loukhoum connection – smells very cherry pipe tobaccoey to me, with a powerful almond note in the mid-drydown. It will be very nice to wear cuddled up in a sweater this winter I think.

  4. Laurie says:

    Hi Tara,

    Yes, that’s how Back to Black was for me too, with lots of almond and honey, though it had a powder note too for me. Very Loukhoum-like, but with tabac added and better staying power than Rahat. Perfectly timed for fall.

    Glad you’re looking forward to the cart going up lete next week!

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