the name game

As readers of this blog know, I’ve been working on a white floral scent I’d named Bouquet Blanc months ago. I’d had a link to it on my site until recently, in the “upcoming scents” section. I’ve talked about it a lot here on the blog as I’ve worked on it. Well, I was too slow to finish it because now Le Labo has one called Bouquet Blanc that they are selling through Anthropologie. I guess I’ll need to come up with a new name. Naming is hard and I liked that one, so this is disappointing. That’ll teach me to be quicker about this, lol.

Fall Favorites

Lieu de Reves got a mention today on the top 10 fall favorites list on NST. Thanks Jessica!

It’s really tough for me to pick a top 10 fall list because so many of my favorites are fall/winter (and many overlap both seasons). Here are some of my fall faves though:

Annick Goutal Heure Exquise
Gucci L’Arte di Gucci
Francis Kurkdjian Lumiere Noire Pour Femme
Guerlain Parure
Sonoma Scent Studio Winter Woods
Parfums DelRae Bois de Paradis
Chanel 22
Chanel Bois des Iles
Serge Lutens La Myrrhe
Les Parfums de Rosine Poussière de Rose
Caron Parfum Sacre extrait

Some other rich scents, like Fumerie Turque, Nahema, Sacrebleu, Fireside Intense, Coco, POTL, and Tabac Aurea come out in winter for me rather than fall. Know I’ll think of more….

Rainy Friday

Lots of rain this morning and I’m heading in to have that tooth extracted after the failed root canal attempt. It should be relatively simple. I’ll try to post in a couple days. All orders as of this moment are out in the mail. I’d like to do a fall scents post soon — so many favorites for fall. . Anyway, just thought I’d give a heads up in case I’m offline for a day or two.

checking in

I sent out a few Reves2 samples to testers and have had good feedback so far. I want to send out some more soon, and I’m just wearing it more myself after taking a few days off from it. I’m hoping testers will have some name ideas.

I’m working again on the winter scent and trying a new oakmoss product in it. I just received samples last week of two new synth moss products by Firmenich — an oakmoss and a treemoss. They are made with a combination of natural and synth ingredients but with no natural moss. I like both better than Givco synth oakmoss (which I don’t use) but neither is exactly like real moss. They’re very nice though and will help when used in combination with natural moss. They both seem to have some Evernyl in them (a common synth moss) but they are more complex blends and feel more natural to me than straight Evernyl. I think we’ll continue to see development of ingredient replacements as companies try to create substitutes for some of the ingredients that IFRA has restricted so severely. It’s interesting to see what comes along.

I bet people had lots of fun at the Sniffa in NY this last weekend. It rained here quite a bit over the weekend and really feels like the seasons have totally switched gears.

weekend update

I finally have a tester formula to send out for the Lieu de Reves take-off as soon as we make more samples of it. It’s different enough that it should be a new scent with a new name and I’ll keep the original as is. If people like the new one, I’ll add it to the Boutique group and I’ll keep the original Reves as an Exclusive.

The original has more hedione, heliotrope, and musk. The new has a woodsier base with oak extract in addition to the cedar and with a light touch of suede. It also has a little cocoa note and more rose than the original. It has just as much violet on a percentage basis, but the violet feels less intense because of the increased complexity of the woodsy notes. I’ve been adjusting to keep sweetness in check and need feedback on that. I’m still working on the classic inspired scent and not ready yet to send it out for testing.

I’m about done with the special orders for the 34 ml old style bottles. I hope to put the 5 ml and 17 ml sizes up soon, but I’m going to wait until the end of the month after I get a root canal out of the way. I had one about 15 years ago and hoped not to do that again, but it seems many of us accumulate a couple of these along the way. I had hoped I could last until my appointment on the 26th, but it’s worse this weekend so we’ll call in the morning to see if they can squeeze me in soon. There’s always something crazy going on, lol.

My wrists have improved a lot but are not yet able to do pipetting, so my helper is doing the batching with me. I think it should be possible to put up the smaller sizes and the 34 ml in the Boutique scents. I’ll decide in a week or two, but that’s my plan at this time. I don’t think I’ll be able to do the shea cream this holiday season but maybe I can do that after the holidays this winter.

My brother was up for a short visit this weekend. We have our first real rain of the season today, which is quite a switch after the hot Indian summer we’re been having.

Upcoming new FM rose scent

Here’s the first review I’ve seen of the new Frederic Malle rose scent called Portrait of a Lady.  It’s by Dominique Ropion and the listed notes are Turkish rose, cassis, raspberry, cinnamon, clove, patchouli, sandalwood, incense, Ambroxan, and white musks.  Sounds interesting!

The last rose/patch scent I fell in love with was Francis Kurkdjian’s Lumiere Noire Pour Femme, which is gorgeous to me. I really need to sample the new Francis Kurkdjian Absolue Pour le Soir; Ida posts a tempting review here. I haven’t fallen for many new releases this year, but I have high hopes for this new FK.

Just thought I’d mention these items for my fellow rose lovers. I apologize for not keeping up with the blog as much lately. I’ll have another update this weekend.

Checking in…

I think I’ve sent the link to everyone on the 34 ml blog offer list, but I’ve not heard back from a few people yet. If you’ve not received the link email yet, check your spam folder and let me know if you need me to send out another email with the link. I’d like to finish these special orders. No rush, but I want to be sure I take care of everyone.

Some people have asked about the new scent and about the tweak to Lieu de Reves. The new scent is inspired by the older classics. It will have some chypre influence but won’t be as mossy as some vintage chypres nor will it be the “new chypre” with clean patch or clean synth moss notes. It has some natural moss and lots of sandalwood in the base, plus some tonka, patch, and amber. The heart has rose, jasmine sambac absolute, light peach, and soft spices. I’m also using a little bit of a new tobacco absolute that is less green and leafy than my original one; it has some soft fruity notes and some wonderful musky animalic tones that add a lot to the base. I’m about ready to send out a few testers and will need input on a name. 🙂

The motivation for the tweak to Reves is to get it ready to join the Boutique group. I may keep the original in the Exclusives and rename it something with “dream” in the name, but we’ll see. The tweak is more complex with more orris and rose, less musk, a hint of cocoa, a little incense, and some new oakwood absolute. I’ll need feedback before deciding what to do.

Sure feels like fall.