Scents in Progress

The Reves take off contains an interesting ingredient that I’ve not used before in a scent on my list: oakwood absolute. The absolute is made from French wine barrels and has a different kind of woody smell with some gourmand vanillic and fruity elements to it. I like it very much and thought it was interesting with the other notes in this fragrance. Once I know the formula is set, I’ll put up a link to the scent description. It has floral notes (violet, rose, heliotrope) but also woods, incense, moss, and a subtle hint of leather. I think it’ll be nice in the spring.

The classic-inspired scent is more traditional. It has some really lovely ingredients — a pretty jasmine sambac absolute, a yummy orris, some jasmine lactones that add a creamy floral aspect, natural oakmoss, sandalwood, rose… I can’t wait to finalize this formula. I sent out some testers but am having second thoughts and am now increasing the rose again (I’d had it higher in a previous mod and think I’ll bump it up again). I’m right at the IFRA limit for moss and am considering going a little higher and just putting a warning on it. I’ll see which way I like it best. This last stage in fragrance formulation is always the hardest for me, taking all tester comments into consideration along with my own preferences and making the last tweaks.

Over the weekend I finally looked at my notes on the white floral trials from last summer. I need to pick this project up again so I can try to finish in time for summer. I did so much experimenting on this theme last summer that I’m hoping to do two takes on the theme. I’ll get back to work on it and see where it leads.

We had quite a lot of snow on the mountains in the distance over the weekend. This Friday night is supposed to be so cold and stormy that the snow level may get very close to us. It’s only snowed here once in my lifetime, so snow would be a rare event!

About Laurie E

artisan perfumer and owner of Sonoma Scent Studio
This entry was posted in Perfume Making & Ingredients, Sonoma Scent Studio Updates. Bookmark the permalink.

10 Responses to Scents in Progress

  1. jo says:

    ya know what???

    i don’t know a thing about what you are doing except your results, BUT: i say put in all you want of the oak moss and post a warning. i cannot believe that, if you think it would be a logical and true step towards a great scent, then it must be!!!!! just as long as you cover yourself legally…… grrrrrrr.

  2. jo says:

    GOOD!!!!!! i hope it comes out the way you wanted……i trust you implicitly!

    jo

    • Laurie E says:

      I’d feel better about extra moss in a custom blend than in a scent on my list, but I’m just curious to try it. There may be other options that are as good or better. The blend gets sweeter when I Increase the rose absolute, so I’m looking at ways to counter that.

  3. *jen says:

    Both sound stunning.

    • Laurie E says:

      Thanks Jen. Just trying the last classic mod today and it has aged sweeter over the last week so I do need to cut the benzoin that I’d just added. I’m going to adjust a few things today and test again.

  4. Dionne says:

    These both sound fabulous – can’t wait to try them!

  5. Brian says:

    Where did you get the oakwood absolute? It sounds really intriguing and I would like to sample some. I have an idea for a scent inspired by the dryads, the ancient Greek wood nymphs.

    • Laurie E says:

      Hi Brian,
      It is from a place in France that specializes in naturals and only sells wholesale to businesses. If you have a business and want more info you can send me an email at info@sonomascentstudio.com. If you’re looking for a retail source I don’t know of one right now, I’m sorry. Sounds like you have a fun idea. Good luck!

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