Wishing everyone a wonderful 2017! I’m very grateful to be part of the fragrance community and hope 2017 treats us well!
I took the photo above from my deck a few days before Christmas. The oak trees are bare now and look sculptural against the blue sky and puffy clouds.
I’m looking forward to finishing the two new scents that I’ve been working on this past year — the cozy chocolate gourmand and the floral with mimosa, orange blossom, and jasmine. The gourmand should be ready very soon in the new year.
Many thanks for your support of small artisan businesses, and Happy New Year!
I just put Lieu de Reves back on the Mixed Media Collection page where it can be purchased, and I moved Rose Musc into the Archive for now. I do still have some Rose Musc left that can be purchased from the Archive page, and I can make more when I run out (but I probably won’t have time right away).
Happy holidays! Hope you have a wonderful holiday weekend with friends and family. My brother and his family will be up to visit with us next weekend for New Year’s.
This last week my assistant and I batched Winter Woods and Fireside Intense while listening to Christmas music, which seemed appropriate. 🙂 Now that holiday orders are done, I’ll get back to work on the new gourmand scent.
Wishing everyone a warm and festive holiday and much happiness in 2017!
Concern has been growing over the last few years that natural perfumery oils could be regulated out of existence because natural oils are complex mixtures of aroma chemicals and often contain chemicals that are limited by safety rules. A recent Perfumer & Flavorist article about a possible new way to safety test natural ingredients caught my eye, partly because of the parallels to current food and diet research.
In his article Will All of Our Flowers Be Gone?, Kim Bleimann (Chairman and Chief Executive Officer, Berjé Inc.) discusses whether we should test natural perfumery oils in their whole form rather than judging their safety by the levels of individual chemicals in them. For example, should we judge the safety of rose oil by tests conducted on the whole rose oil, or should we judge the safe limit for topical use by the maximum safe amount of each isolated chemical found in rose oil? We currently do the latter, but this article suggests that we should also investigate natural oils in their whole forms because some initial tests show that safe levels of whole oils may be higher than would be allowed if judged by the individual chemical components on their own.
This observation sounds similar to research in the food and diet arena, where whole plant foods have been found to be beneficial for all kinds of diseases, but supplements containing individual substances extracted from plants have not been nearly as effective as the whole plant food, and in some cases have even shown negative effects. Dr. Greger from Nutritionfacts.org has posted a number of videos on this topic, such as the benefit of whole turmeric vs curcumin supplements and the difference between beta carotene naturally found in food vs in supplement form. In the case of beta carotene, the isolated supplements seemed to increase cancer rates, whereas whole foods that contain beta carotene decrease cancer rates. The synergistic effects of all the substances in the foods seem to be important. The dose matters too: a much higher dose of an isolated component like beta carotene is possible in a pill than in whole foods, and more is not always better.
It is hard to say how much this pattern seen in food research might apply to the topical use of plant oils in perfume, but the subject seems worthy of research, and Mr. Bleimann states that a number of natural perfumery oils are now being investigated in their whole forms. The results will be interesting. Until now, the main approach to saving natural perfumery oils has been to develop oils with less of the components of concern, for example creating rose oil with reduced methyl eugenol. Developing standards based not only on individual components but also factoring in research on natural oils in their whole form is another approach that could help preserve the use of natural perfumery ingredients.
I made a batch of Lieu de Reves and plan to add it to the site for New Year’s Day. I just made a small batch this time, but it came out well and I can make more if needed. I will probably move it from the Archive back out to the Mixed Media page (for a while, at least). I may add samples for purchase late next week.
I’ve not had time to make any Cameo yet, but I still hope to have time to make some of that as well.
I’ve been too busy with holiday orders to make more progress on the new gourmand scent, but it is very close to being done. I want to finish it as soon as I can in the new year.
Equestrian was included in Fragrantica’s Best of 2016 post, which was a wonderful surprise for me on Thursday morning. The post includes picks from many Fragrantica editors and also features photos of the editors in fun holiday-themed poses. The end-of-year posts always inspire me to buy samples of the scents I have missed during the year. Lots of good ideas in this post. 🙂
I’ve received some lovely emails from people who have bought Equestrian, saying that they ride horses and have found it to be very evocative. That’s always the best feeling for me when people make a connection to a scent of mine.
Lieu de Reves and Cameo are currently out of stock in the archive, and I’ve received a number of email requests to make a batch of one or both. I’m trying to gauge how much interest there would be so that I can decide how much to make. If you’d like to express interest, you could leave a comment here or on my FB page where I also posted this inquiry, or you could send me an email (email@example.com). Thanks so much!